Yesterday I had to pay for my second cup of coffee. So today, Shoilen, the young woman who serves us at the Casa, and I figured out I can just drink the one cup allowed each to my husband and son as part of their “free breakfast with room.”

Shoilen  is either in her late teens or early 20s and is a “maesta du salsa.”

“Ah. En el lugar al lado?” I motioned to the place next door where music blared and dancing occurred every afternoon and evening.

“No,” she motioned the other direction. “Dos bloques.”

She and I grinned like co-conspirators that we were when she poured my third cup of coffee. I slipped her 3 CUC’s as a tip. (The average Cuban salary is the equivalent of 40 CUCs per month)

 

Time to walk.

And walk.

And walk.

The group started at the Museo de la Revolucion y Memorial Granma. It is the former palace, and is elegant with marble staircases, a hall of mirrors work replicating the one in Versailles, ornate bas relief work and interiors design by Tiffany.

Rooms are dedicated to different aspects of the revolucion and contain Che’s beret, canteen and other items (how did they know they were his?). Several bloodstained uniforms and clothes from the martyrs of the Revolucion are displayed in cases.

The guide was proud to point out the more than 300 bullet holes in the Courtyard “where the last battle of the revolucion was fought.” (hmmm? yes to the bullet holes, but the last battle?)

More blood again as she pointed out the stains scattered along walls. We later concluded that it was not exactly correct as some of the stains appeared on walls that have clearly been repainted since 1959.

She tried to walk us quickly past the “Hall of Cretins,” but we were a renegade group and had to take photos of the 10 foot high cartoon characters poking fun at Batista, Ronald Reagan, George H.W. Bush and W.

Batista is a general’s uniform: “Thank you cretin for helped us to make the revolucion”

Reagan is in a cowboy outfit: “Thank you cretin for helped us to strengthen the revolucion”

Bush is in Caesar’s robes: “Thank you cretin for helped us to consolidate the revolucion”

W is in a Nazi helmet and holding a book upside down: “Thank you cretin for helped us to make Socialism irrevocable”

Our guide was afraid we were offended. We all thought it was funny.

It made me realize, again, how much Cuba thinks of itself in relation to the United States, even if negatively. (I don’t think most Americans even think of Cuba)

After that we walked for hours on the streets that were not wide enough for two cars much less a bus.

Walk

Water

Find shade

Stop. Listen. More history.

Please be time for lunch.

We melted into our chairs at the Art Bar surrounded by the owner’s photography. It was the first modern place we had seen in Cuba.

Yay, afterwords we were on our air-conditioned bus to visit Fusterlandia, a Tim Burton psychedelic film come alive on the streets of the Jaimanitas neighborhood.

For more than 20 years, artist José Fuster, has covered every house, roof, wall, sign and curb with brightly colored tiles into mosaics of Che, animals, people, street scenes… whatever.

His personal home feels like a Willy Wonka factory tour tile designs. (Ok, too many film references)

Supposedly all of this has helped his neighborhood become middle class as the residents sell lemonade and painted tile.

I was overwhelmed and went back to the bus.

Next up, La Floridita, for daiquiris supposedly invented there by Hemingway.

Crowded

Fun

Happy people

Live music

Hundreds and hundreds of daiquiris being served in the hour or so that we were there.

Hundreds.

The obligatory photograph with the bronze statue of Hemingway in the corner of his favorite stool.

Frozen drinks after a long hot day of walking was refreshing.

Dinner on our own that night was at Sloppy Joe’s Bar where the specialty is, yes, you guessed it sloppy Joe burgers. My husband found it and I’ve leaned over the years to let him find him “American-type” place for a meal of two.

Sloppy Joe’s is a definite throwback to the Batista era when famous Hollywood celebrities came to the island to enjoy playtime. From the photos on the walls it appears many of them visited Sloppy Joe’s as well.

Early to bed.

Tomorrow we leave Habana and discover a Cuba I never imagined.

 

 

 

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