We joined our group in the afternoon. We booked a “People to People, Legal Trip to Cuba for Americans” with Intrepid Travel. We like their small groups ( no more than 14-16) and their emphasis on experiencing life closer to the “locals” with an essential tourist site mixed in.

We met in the lobby and quietly sized up one another.  A perfect balance of male/female; couples/solo; young/older.

Dady Rodriquez, our leader. Native of Trinidad, Cuba. University educated. Well informed about world events, politics, history. Loves Cuba. Does not want to leave. Wants a better quality of life for Cuban, but does not want her country to lose its soul to American style capitalism.

She loves Americans and sees the strain between the countries as being the egos of the leaders back in the 1960s.

We walk through the narrow streets of Viejo Habana to our tour bus and meet William our driver for the next week.Yes, there are American cars from the 1960’s, but not as many as you expect.

This first night felt a bit touristy.

Dinner at one of Havana’s first and best paladors. El Canonazo owned by Ivan Justo and Enrique Nunez. This family owned restaurant started in their home and the interior courtyard has now been expanded with thatched roofs and seating for up to 50 or 60 people.

It is clearly on the tourist path because the other groups arrive by bus as well. The bar had an abundance of photos from the revolution, including of course, Fidel and Che. Fidel, Che and, now, Raul are everywhere.

Chickens plucking around our feet underneath the tables.

A live band in the corner.

The meal:

Tomato

Cucumber

Cabbage

Frijoles negro y arroz

pollo, carne, pork

flan and citrus cake.

We have what money can buy, and this is what money can buy.

You eat what is in season and if you have more wealth you can eat meat.

There are no spices because there are few imports.

 

Across the road is Fortalenza de San Carlos de la Cabana.

It is the largest fort in Latin America. Construction began in 1763 and was completed in 1774.

Cobblestone streets

A moat, now dry

Former barracks, now museums, art galleries and tourist shops.

It is most famous now for the 9 PM canon ceremony which historically indicated the closing of the harbor.

Young Cubans dressed and Spanish colonial uniforms march around for 15 to 20 minutes and stand in formation to load the Canon.

I look for my son and see him in the far distance standing on the top another structure taking pictures of the sunset and Harbor.(how did he get up there?)

My husband comments that the colonial ceremony is a reminder that Cubans have not been left alone to be Cubans until the revolution. Other countries have controlled the small island for centuries.

The Cuban “soldiers” make much of the flaming torch, waving it around and pointing it at bystanders, presumably waiting for just the right moment when it is 9 PM then…

BOOM!

And it’s over.

Suddenly it’s dark and everyone makes their way to their bus.

Fortunately, this was the only touristy day of our trip.

No mas.